The cupcake as "frosting transport system" in The New York Times

In The New York Times' Bitten Blog, Suzanne Lenzer admits that she has been rethinking her take-it-or-leave-it stance on cupcakes. Click through for a photo of the chocolate cupcakes she made and the recipe.

Right or wrong I’ve always viewed the cupcake as a frosting transport system, and if you’re not a huge frosting fan (I’m not), then I figured, why bother? Why not spend those calories on something really decadent, like a wedge of Stilton with a glass of good red wine?
But last weekend I needed to bake something for 60 people, and a rhubarb tart wasn’t going to cut it. Then I remembered a friend had mentioned a recipe from Maida Heatter that was, in her words, a “grown-up cupcake.” I figured perhaps I owed the miniature confections a chance.
Ms. Heatter’s recipe, modestly entitled, “Chocolate Cupcakes” from her 1974 book “Maida Heatter’s Book of Great Desserts,” produced a rich, moist crumb that relies on cocoa powder for its deep chocolately flavor. But it’s her topping of semi-sweet chocolate ganache that separates these cupcakes from the crowd. No buttercream, no food coloring, and no diabetic shock after consumption. Just a really nice chocolate cake that’s a bit on the small side.
I still don’t totally get the cupcake craze, but I’ve clearly been missing something all these years. Cupcakes are fun, and when they taste good, so much the better.
Note: the pastel colored sprinkles are my own addition, a subtle, crunchy, and yes, artificially colored nod to the whimsical toppings of childhood.