Not again! More on the (so-called) cupcake backlash -- the business edition

I am kinda sick of arguing about whether cupcakes are "over" or not. I am also tired of hearing how cupcakes are a trend whose time has passed (I disagree). Why must people hate on cupcakes? Why not just (in moderation) enjoy the pleasure they bring? Do we need to analyse them to death?

From Slate, via Grub Street (I depend on Grub Street but do not agree with their cupcake hatred). With titles like, "The Cupcake Crash Is Coming," and warnings to enjoy your overhyped overpriced overly sugared cupcake today because it won't be there tomorrow, it could be dope we're describing.

Daniel Gross, who wrote the anticupcake piece for Slate may be upset with more than just cupcakes. He seems to loathe foodies as Grub Street pointed out, but I focused more on the financial and business aspects he discussed. He has some valid points: I do think there are many cupcakeries that have opened without a quality product, or that mass-move merchandise, which is the opposite of what a quality cupcake bakery offers. But there are many smaller, quality bakeries that offer delicious and affordable cupcakes. I visited two such places today: ChikaLicious Dessert Club and Butter Lane. Both focus on sustainable, local, small-batch, and often organic ingredients, with consistent, well-made, and delicious results.

"The real problem, though, is that the cupcakes are essentially reactionary. In the last few years, as the dread foodie virus has spread, right-thinking Americans have been forced to become experts about a wider range of products: coffee, cured ham, cheese, and, most recently, chocolate. Chocolate has become more sophisticated, and, hence, more complex and less sweet. Urban chocolatiers have fled from the soothing milk chocolate of our youths to dark, bitter, confections combined with spices and chili peppers. Cupcakes, by contrast, are willfully uncomplex, familiar, and comforting, as the menus of Magnolia and Sprinkles show. But as reactionaries often do, they've gone too far. I've tried a bunch of these new cupcakes and find them to be way too sweet—sugar on top of sugar. This morning, a colleague came in with a dozen small cupcakes from Crumbs, each sweeter than the last. A diabetic would have gone into shock simply looking at the package."

I am not going to disagree with the fact that many chain bakeries have products that are mass-produced and overly sweet. But that's a small fraction of the total cupcake experience. It's like choosing Starbucks over, say, mom and pop's coffeeshop. If you prefer less sweet and individually crafted sweets, don't go to a large chain supplier. Duh.


Will all these newer cupcakeries be here in ten years? No. But I guarantee cupcakes will still be around, and many quality bakeries will be providing them long after I (and possibly Mr. Gross) have shuffled off this mortal coil.







I met these three women today enjoying cupcakes at Butter Lane. Stacie (not me, another Stacie -- same spelling), Susie and Suzanne. This is another reason why cupcakeries will succeed: people socially enjoying a snack together, a pit stop, a break from the hustle and flow. A much nicer choice for 2 pm on a beautiful summer Saturday than a dark and possibly smoky bar. (Although those have their place as well...)




What are your thoughts? Cupcake people, you have the floor: SPEAK!







(ed. note: typo fixed, thanks to commenter.)